How to install a catch basin drain

A drainage catch basin is an engineered drainage structure with the sole purpose of collecting rainwater or snowmelt and transporting it to local waterways, mainly through underground piping.

If you have a problem with standing water on your property, building a drainage catch basin may be a good idea. After all, standing water can seep into the foundation of your home and cause expensive structural damage.

Actual instructions may vary by type of catch basin being installed. If you still need help, contact your local Mr. Give us a call at or request a job estimate online. Standing water is the perfect spawning environment for mosquitoes. If mosquitoes are making your outdoor spaces unbearable, call Mosquito Joe. It is up to the user to punch out the holes. Unwanted water around the home creates problems.

Water promotes mold growth, rots out wood, turns your lawn into moss , and welcomes insects in your home. Sustained periods of water will eventually create major damage , requiring expensive repairs. A catch basin collects that water and invisibly shuttles it away from your house through buried pipes to a spot where it cannot harm your house. Identify the start of the drainage system run—the catch basin location. If the starting location is near a drainpipe, the catch basin will be located about 12 to 18 inches from the foundation, depending on the size of the catch basin.

The end of the run should be at least 10 feet away on a decline and farther for flat ground. Move the water as far away from the foundation as possible. The pipe should have a 0. If the pipe is running down a natural slope, then you can likely dig the trench to a uniform depth.

If there is no slope, then you will need to decline the trench. Dig a hole for the catch basin to the depth of the basin plus another 6 inches for gravel. Add the gravel. Stake out the area to be trenched with the string and stakes.

Then, use the trenching shovel to remove the turf and to dig the trench from the catch basin to the intended exit point. Mound up the dirt from the trench under plastic sheeting. Close up the sheet at the end of every workday.

Once you have dug the trench to at least 8 inches deep, lay the 4-inch sewer pipe. Extend the pipe as far as you need. When connecting bell-end sewer pipe, the female end of the pipe the bell must be pointing up-grade; that is, in the direction of the catch basin. Concentrate much of the drain gravel under and around the catch basin. Also, have a bed of gravel along the first foot or two along the drain pipe.

Gently twist the 4-inch pipe into the side of the catch basin and through the flexible sleeve. Other types of catch basins have a grooved ring. The end of the pipe sits in the grooved ring and is sealed with silicone caulk. Make sure that the drain gravel is high enough to support the pipe. Avoid having the catch basin's sleeve support the pipe.

On the inside of the catch basin, pull the pipe inward. Make sure that the pipe extends about 3 or 4 inches. Do not have the pipe enter the basin flush with the side of the basin. Catch basins and pipes should be fitted tightly so that they are as leak-free as possible.

However, some leakage is expected. This is not a pressurized system where no leakage is required. The PVC pipes do not need to be cemented. Drill several weep holes at the bottom of the basin to prevent water from pooling.

At the end of the pipe run, add at least 6 inches of gravel below the end of the pipe. Insert the pop-up emitter and its self-closing cap. A barrier around the drain emitter is helpful as it keeps the gravel in place and provides a barrier against lawn and weed growth.